ISSEY MIYAKE
Issey Miyake established Miyake Design Studio in Tokyo in 1970 and showed his first collection in New York the following year, treating cloth itself as the starting point for design. The house has been led by Satoshi Kondo since 2019, and the method hasn't changed: fabrics developed from scratch, then shaped into garments that hold their form through movement rather than tailoring. Expect sculptural coats and jackets, pleated and pressed dresses and skirts, lightweight technical knits, wide trousers and single-piece garments cut from continuous lengths of cloth, in deep blacks and greys punctuated by saturated colour. Pieces pack flat, travel well and read as everyday wear despite the engineering behind them.